The alarm went off at 6.00, but we were both already awake. We turned the heater on to take the chill off the room and laid in bed a little bit longer, but then we got up, packed up the extension lead and drove to Ayers Rock sunrise viewing area. We thought we would get there and then make breakfast while waiting for the sun to come up. When we arrived though, the location had a different plan for us – it’s a 5 minute walk from the car park to the top of the dune where you can see Ayers Rock. So we grabbed some food, rugged up, and up we went. I don’t think it would be possible to wear enough layers to stay warm. I had a shirt, long sleeve, jumper and good double-lining jacket, and my snowboarding gloves, and was still cold!
The platform had a lot of people there, but we found a spot and took a couple of photos. We waited for about 30 minutes and saw the sun start to come up. We then considered what we had on for the day and made a move, driving to the Mala carpark for the climb. We could see on the way that it was quite windy and we hoped that it would be open. Once we got there though, it had the sign up that it was closed due to strong winds at the top.
We came up with a plan B for the day, and then made breakfast in the back of the car. Just as we were finishing, at 8.00, the ranger arrived and took down the closed sign – so it much have just been there from the previous day and it doesn’t open until 8.00. So we were good to go! We went to the toilet, picked what clothes we wanted to wear and off we went. There would have been maybe 20-30 people in front of us.
We started the climb to the chain full of energy and excitement, although stopped to look back a couple of times and had a slight case of vertigo. Eventually we made it to the chain, and proceeded up it. It was quite steep, and again, we stopped to look down a few times, and started to think about the fact we had to go back down afterwards. But we were going for it! We needed a break to catch our breath several times. We passed some people, and others passed us as we were stopped. About 2/3 of the way up a young-ish (late teenager?) was coming back down – he had already been to the top! We couldn’t see where it was going to end for most of the climb, but eventually we got to the end of the chain, where there was a big level area. We looked back down at what we had just achieved and were quite proud of ourselves. We took some photos and had a rest to catch our breath back and recharge.
We then decided to continue on to the top. So we went up the last segment of chain and were walking up the face of Ayers Rock unassisted. It was still quite steep and scary, and the wind was starting to gust. After about 50m or so we had a chat and decided we didn’t need to go the rest of the way – we already had a long decent ahead of us and a busy afternoon, so didn’t want to be rushed and in bad conditions. So we turned around and started the trek down.
That 50m was quite scary. The rock wasn’t slippery but it was still steep, and a wrong step could easily be fatal. It didn’t take us long to get to the top of the chain, and we made our way back down. Going down was much harder on the feet. The chain was really low so very hard to use as an aid. Sometimes we would go without using it, but then a slight mis-step and I wanted to hold on for that peace of mind. There were lots of people coming up – I reckon at least 50% were Japanese. It’s currently the Japanese Obon holiday and it seems Ayers Rock is a popular tourist destination for them. We were both quite disgusted when we saw a family with 2 kids under 5 doing the climb. But there are no rules – do at your own risk.
We didn’t need as many rests on the way down, but it was good to stop and let people coming up go past – if for no other reason than to rest the ankles and knees. It seemed like it was never going to end but then the end of the chain appeared in front of us, and we had to do the last bit without any support. Finally we were back on the bottom. It was about 9.30 so we had spent a good 90 minutes on the activity. It was great to be back on level ground. We had a hot drink and some cookies, and rested for a while, reflecting on what we had just done. By 10.00 we saw the ranger go over and close the climb due to the strong winds. So it was open for all of 2 hours, and we were lucky enough to have been there at the right time of the day so we could have done it, while still being off before it got too dangerous. We could feel the wind picking up over the time since we got to the bottom and thought they’d be close to closing it.
Our next activity was the gorge walk. It was a 10 minute drive, and we knew not a long walk so just took a little bit of water and some snacks, and made our way. This was an easy walk, in to a gorge in the rock, and we were surprised to see there was water at the end of it. It would have been the only water we had seen near the rock, so was obviously a popular place in the past before it became such a tourist destination, for animals and aboriginals alike.
Once completed we thought we need to do the cultural centre so went to the car park there and walked in. We saw lots of paintings with Dreamtime stories on them. We then decided to take the opportunity for lunch, so bought a BLT and a burger at the cafe. We ate it in the sun to try to stay warm, and then went back to the car, and to the camp ground. We were quite tired so took the opportunity for a 30 minute power nap. We then woke up, got dressed in “nicer” clothes, and made our way to the campground carpark to await our pickup.
We only had to wait 10 minutes or so before the bus arrived. We were the only people getting on, which was great. We had a chat to our pilot on the way to the airport, and after weighing ourselves and a quick toilet stop, hopped in our Cessna 172 for a scenic flight. I was in the front co-pilot seat and Kaoru had the back seat to herself, so she could take photos from both sides of the aircraft. We took off and started with a flight over Ayers Rock. We could only do two faces as the other two are sacred and photos are not allowed of them. But we could see the area where people do the climb (obviously nobody was on it). Then it was just a short trek to the Olgas and we did a couple of passes over them. We could see the Valley Of The Winds which is one of the walks we had planned for tomorrow.
We flew over Lake Amadeaus, which is the second largest inland lake in Australia. While Lake Eyre was special because it is below sea level, Lake Amadeaus had it’s own pecularity in that it was a salt lake in the middle of the desert, but had a number of islands in it. It was quite strange to see the white, with patches of green dotted through it. We looked for camels but they usually only trek through the lake at night, so we could only see their tracks from previous trek’s.
It was then about 20 minutes flying time to Kings Canyon. The pilot gave us the option of flying high in smooth air, or flying low and seeing if we could spot any camels (at the risk of turbulence). Kaoru was happy with the low flying so we did that – not that I like turbulence at all but it sounded like a bit of fun. We made our way over to the canyon, eyes locked to the ground, but no luck. So we started to climb back up as we approached the ranges. They looked amazing from the air. We could see areas we had seen on our drive, and they were just as awe inspiring from 3000′ above.
We did 2 low level passes over the canyon, and could see people walking out where we had been a couple of days earlier. We could see the Garden Of Eden with the water, and the palm trees we had spotted during our hike. Which was better? Well, if it was stinking hot, the flight would have been better than doing that long walk. Given the conditions we had (not too hot, not too cold), getting right up there and doing it was an awesome experience, and the flight over afterwards was the cherry on top.
After the canyon we trek’d out to the end of the mountain – this was a part our pilot loved doing but couldn’t do with all passengers. He descended as we got to the cliff face, so we were only about 100′ above the ground before it dropped right off below us, and we could really see the drop off. We then descended that last 100′ and flew level with the cliff face to take it in. The air was much rougher here, and we had a few big bumps that had me squeezing my legs a bit harder! But as we made our way round the face and headed back towards Ayers Rock we were back in smooth air.
We still had no luck with spotting camels on the flight back. Eventually we arrived at the airport and came in for a perfect landing, and taxi’d back to our parking spot – watching a Jetstar flight wait for us before taking off to Sydney. Our flight lasted about 2 hours, and was our treat for the trip – definitely worth it! Once the plane was tied down we were taken back to the campground, but asked to be dropped off at the supermarket at the resort instead as we wanted to buy some food. We got some pasta for dinner, and also decided to spoil ourselves with an ice cream each. We then walked to the bus stop and waited for the next shuttle bus – which took about 10 minutes to arrive.
Once back at the campground I had a couple of beers and relaxed until 5.30. We then got our warm clothes organised and made our way to the bus stop, and awaited the bus to take us to the Field Of Light Star Pass which we had purchased. We had decided if we were going to do the Field Of Light, we should make it our premium evening and do the viewing with Champagne and Canapes. Our bus drove us down to the drop off point and we watched the sun set over Ayers Rock while sipping champagne and eating a range of nibbles – Mum’s on a Sunday are still more enoyable though!
As the sun set, we could see the lights in the field start to come on. What we hadn’t realised beforehand is that Ayers Rock is just the location of them – not a feature in them. So once we could no longer see the rock, we could see the lights in the field. We walked down the dune and in to the field of light, taking a number of photos along the way. They changed colour as we walked around, but that was pretty much it. We made it back in time for the first but – 7.45 (the second one was 8.00), and were dropped off back at the campground. We went to our van and Kaoru made pasta for dinner while I set the small table up outside with the heater on it to keep us warm. After dinner Kaoru did the dishes and it had been a long day, so we didn’t even write out diaries up – we went straight to bed around 9.30.