We woke up about 630 and looked out the window at the lake. I was surprised to not see a mist on the water. After a shower we packed our bags, putting most of our stuff in my backpack, and packing a day pack in Kaoru’s. We went down for an 800 breakfast, which was a typical Japanese breakfast. After cleaning our teeth we checked out in time to catch an 845 bus.
At the depot we put my backpack ina locker (we had a plan…read on to see it unfold) and walked for about 5 minutes to the Kegon Falls, which were very impressive. We had a quick look around and then had to rush back to the bus stop to go the opposite direction for todays hike. We got off at the Ryuzu Falls, which weren’t as impressive, but we hiked up to the top of them, getting a few photos along the way.
Across the highway at the top, we continued our walk, through a gate. This warned us of a recent (last month) bear attack on a human in this area. If you survive the earthquakes, you still have wild bears to contend with over here! And they call Australia dangerous!
As we progressed along the waters edge, we were amused by dragging our feet through the “shimo” – all I could call these are ice worms, although the dictionary translates it to ice needles or frost columns. From the water in the ground expanding as it chills, it comes out in thin needles of ice which stick up vertically, or across horizontally, or anything in between.
More walking had us on a boardwalk that weaved its way through the valley. There were several people doing the walk with a tripod and camera – I was glad to just be carrying Kaoru’s light backpack with minimum food and drink in it. The day was very cold – I had my hoodie on to keep my head warm, as well as a couple of long sleeved T’s and a jacket, however the day was sunny and my sunglasses were on all day.
We eventually got to the Yunotaki Falls, which were the most impressive. Until we found our next waypoint involved us following the steep path up them! My knee was starting to get quite bad again but we had come this far, so there was no turning back now! We took it easy and by the time we were at the top, my jacket and hoodie were unzipped at the front. The next sign we saw gave us 2 options – a 30 minute or 40 minute walk to the Onsen. We took the shorter one through the flowers and trees, instead of the long one throughh the forest. It was a lovely walk around the lake, which is the primary water source for all of the waterfalls we had seen. However at areas there was a very strong sulphur smell which was quite potent.
Finally we reached the end of our 8km hike, at the Yumoto Onsen. There we were relieved to find the free area to soak our feet in the natural hot spring water. Apart from the smell, it how cold your legs were where your pants were pulled up, the soaking was delightful! We dried our feet and put our shoes back on, in time to catch the bus.
En-route back to Nikko, the bus had a 5 minute stop at the depot. Kaoru ran out and grabbed my backpack from the locker. I was thankful for the earlier suggestion from our hotel to do this. The extra weight to carry would have been a struggle, especially up some of the hills.
We got off the bus and went back to the Futurasan Shrine, which was open at this time. We walked around for 20 minutes or so and prayed in there, before making our way back to the train station.
We had about 90 minutes to kill so had a very late lunch, and a hot drink, across the road from the station. We bought a couple of Bento boxes for the 3 hour train trip home, and boarded the train. This train was very comfortable (we had paid a little extra for it). We could see the “budget” train on the platform next to us – people were standing on it, it was so full. Our car was almost full as we pulled out, and within 3 stops, it had picked up all of its passengers and was chockers (I expect the whole train was). There was plenty of leg room (not quite as much as the Shinkansen, but not far off it) and we could walk around easily.
We ate the Bento boxes on the train. The one I had bought had an egg. Kaoru decided she would have it, however when she attempted to crack it open, we found it wasn’t hard boiled! So we both had egg over us (and the seat), which has been the source of humour for us for quite some time to come (everybody can feel free to make egg jokes at Kaoru when you see her). Of course, neither of us can understand why you would buy a Bento box, at a train station, obviously to take on a train, and it would come with a raw egg, and nothing to crack it on / with. But that’s beside the point…
The train took us right to Ofuna, so we just had to change platforms and go one stop to Fujisawa to get home. We had to go to Mister Donut for 100 yen donuts as Kaoru was still upset about the egg incident. A visit to the shops for some breakfast and we were back, quite exhausted but happily relaxed from a great weekend.